Відео

Great set up and testing! So, bottom line, what is the actual (old school stereo rating) RMS wattage power @ 4-ohms with a 48v power supply?

WHAT YOU DO USE IS AN AUDIO POWER CONDITIONER

what is your suggestion for a DYI beginner multi-meter?

Thanks for review is this multimeter 20000 count or 22000 count?

Found this interesting even now, 5 years later. These are a great entry level scope. Comparing to siglent, well yeah this will show a big difference as even siglent is in a different price range for the same marketed specs.

As a music enthusiast (not an "audiophile" by any stretch), I appreciate your thorough and easy-to-understand breakdown of the ongoing market for premium audio and power cables. Having been involved in the mid-range to high-end audio/video sales industry in the past, I can't help but feel that the "audiophile" cable market may be more focused on profits than on genuine value to consumers. The significantly higher profit margins in the "premium cable" market often led salespeople to aggressively push these accessories as essential upgrades. In my personal view, these products seem unjustly overpriced and potentially unnecessary. While I've also encountered claims of significant sound quality improvements with aftermarket "high-end" cables, I remain skeptical. The concept of Pareidolia, which could explain why some believe that a high-priced cable must offer superior performance, is worth investigating. It could be that users convince themselves of a notable sonic improvement, despite the lack of measurable differences from the original equipment cables. This is the primary reason they hear what they perceive to be a sonic improvement in their systems.

Ground is not a myth. It is just a poorly applied term. Early electrical distribution systems in rural areas often just used one wire, to save money. The return path was literally the ground. All earth grounds are not equal due to soil conditions. You can have an earth ground that is a fraction of an ohm or nearly megohms. That is why earth grounds need to be measured to ensure their usefulness. That is why ground mats were developed or multiple ground rods need to be driven to meet safety specifications. With RF things do get a bit weird. What is the return path for a propagating electromagnet wave in free space? However for the antenna to work properly it does need a return path either to ground or the other side of the transmission line. The IEEE has published multiple books on "ground/grounding and bonding." Also as anyone who has worked on old broadcast home radios, has learned, some time you prefer isolation. As a licensed (Extra) HAM and a member of ARRL, their handbooks, even the older ones are a wealth of knowledge.

When can we expect a review for the UNI-T UT181A? Thanks in advance.

@kiss analog, new to electrical work and have an oscilloscope (analogue) but need a bench power suply, any you wouldn't recomened on the less expensive side (150 bucks at most unless any lower is unsafe).

I use r-sps6020 as an additional power supply for charging Bluetti AC200MAX. But sometimes I see sparks after pressing turn on button. Is it a normal behavior?

I don't understand what all the talk all over the internet about this is, surely it's simple, the ground/earth lead on the probe should ALWAYS be connected to EARTH! FULL STOP!?!

Hi Eddie. Its My Birthday today and I really want to get an Oscilloscope. Do you have any thoughts on the Hantek DSO2D15? Love your channel!

Thanks , Eddie . Excellent Video .

If a "12" volt battery shows 10.9 or close....its a good bet a cell is dead. Current will not flow until you have exceeded the voltage already in tbe battery

Being your subscriber for 1 year and already learned a lot from your videos

Junkbox nerd without a clue, needs instructions to find his rectum

HI Eddie, I really like how you are doing these testing Videos. These videos are amazing. Thank you. 😄👍

I really like your latest videos with Omicron and QA403.

This is why 16ga lamp "zip" cord from the bulk spool at the hardware store works so well as speaker wire. 14ga might be interesting if you have long runs or very high power subwoofer(s). 12ga isn't much more, so use it for silly excess to eliminate all doubt. Of course, it isn't NEC approved to run lamp cord thru the walls, so you shouldn't do that. Look for CL2 rated speaker wire. If you stay away from the big name brands, you won't pay big name prices to get big name performance. Go up one size if using copper-coated aluminum (CCA).

Fan of your music also.

We find that QuantAsylum QA403 is a great piece of gear too! So are PicoScopes!

Love these videos. Have you considered seeing a therapist about your audiophile issues? 🤣

There is some context. If you have a low impedance source, (emitter follower, op-amp ect) and driving into a reasonable source resistance (10K-47K) with a cable with a length of ~1m or so, there is no effect for audio. So DAC to preamp, pre to power CD player streamer all these, forget it. However if your source impedance is a electro-magnetic generator (AKA moving coil / magnet Phono cartridge) then some cables will have an excess in capacitance that combined with the motor complex source impedance will have an effect within the audio range. Do you need to spend a lot on better cables, nah, cable and connectors are cheap, even the "good" stuff. If you really need to spend cash on a connector then I highly recommend Southwest Microwave who make some great 1.0mm connectors, DC to 110GHz......

Not relying on resistance and using impedances is what made NAD 3020 such good real-world amplifiers in the early 80s and revolutionised amp topologies towards current delivery into low impedances.

James,what did you do with Eddy?

Interesting measurements, but it is obvious that you are not by far a real audio guy. But a measurment guy. Constructive criticism: Your sound setup is obviously really bad. Thin, cold, hollow, canny and harch, with an unnatural boosted, sissling treble. Accoustic treatment in the room and better mic setup could be a start to get a way better and warmer sound. And a better reference sound playback equipment and setup so that you _too_ can actually hear that the sound right now is actually really, really bad. Good luck.✋🙂

What do you think of grounding boxes quite common in hifi.? Where you would have a capacitor resistor and an inductive possibly fed to ground Earth. Give us the statistics on the graph if its beneficial.

Curiously enough in getting my new workbench setup sorted for dialling amplifiers in, I recently tested some giant aluminum clad motor braking resistors on my Dayton Audio DATS V3 ..Amazingly they came in almost smack on the 8 Ohms specified, and despite being designed for general purpose industrial use, they exhibit *zero* inductance, which was a welcome bonus. So yes, whilst cheap for power resistors, I see no down sides to using them sofar :)

Eddie You da man!!! 😊 I used to be a self proclaimed ‘Audiophile,’ and I could tell the difference in fractions of Hertz, between cables! You believe that, right? 🙄😂 Please do a Speaker cable Video. I had friends that claimed they could tell this and that, I dont know? I never cheapened out on my connections, but the ‘Source’ was always the most important aspect of a High Fidelity Sound System. I ran a higher end Kenwood DC Integrated Amplifier, and a Dual turntable, with Shure cartridge, tracking at a little over a gram and a 1/4 or so. Used a Discwasher and Zerostat system on the records. Aww, I miss those days.

I only use hand wound cables made by blue eyed, blonde virgins. I can't stand when music rolls off above 100khz. 😂

Hi Eddie, another excellent video, thank you so much for the great tutoring.😁💯

"So we're not talking about speaker cables. We'll get into that another time." PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE DO THIS! *on bended knee with clasped hands*

My first job in Electronics [1967] was testing precision resistors. Precision wire-wound non-inductive resistors were wound half way in one direction, half way in the other, with a wire that had an intrinsically low temperature coefficient. The trend was toward 1% metal film resistors in arrays with cancelling temperature coefficients to remain extremely stable over temperature. We used a tertiary standard Kelvin Bridge, with beakers of oil at room and elevated temperature in which to immerse each resistor to calculate its TC. we noted each one's absolute value and TC, and added them together with canceling TCs to achieve the final "perfect' resistor, or voltage divider. The Stanford Linear Accelerator project bought a lot of our stuff. Cheers, --bd

Tshirt game on POINT!

Thanks Eddie! Can you do the same testing with a device like the QA403 that may be more attainable for most of us?

I totally agree the audiofoolery is exposed right here however I would suggest a BNC is probably not a solution for a high powered audio amp for no other reason than its peak current capacity. Many fine wires make good meter probes and speaker wires

AWESOME video !

Air core wire wound resistor will have a magnetic field generated which will have an affect in testing an amplifier.

Please pass some questions on to Mike Engelhardt Mike, I'm fighting with Qspice on a few issues. It's beginning kind of stuff...I find myself having to repeatedly enter schematic info before it takes. Probably I'm adding confusing crap that I only scrub away after the 4th try. I guess I miss the menus behind older gui's that helped set up parts...for instance, a voltage source, for its dc voltage, ac magnitude, and/or step response. The stuff where it gives you hints is awesome...and I like the general manner of the interface...It's just a little too telegraphic for where I am. Also, are there some tutorials on the power user stuff? E.g. repeating loop gain at a variety of DC voltages to see and measure phase margin. Getting high gain amp stages to converge in less than 1 minute reliably. there use to be ways to .savbias and loadbias, but that seems to have gone away, from the docs, at least. Anything you could direct me to would be awesome. At this point, I'm capturing schematics and simming, and it's feeling more streamlined, but I can tell I'm not really mining the main vein. thanks... Dan

Some audiophile cables use a shielded twisted pair with a screen terminated at one end, but you say that's nonsense. You live and you learn. p.s Perhaps skin effect might be a factor and croc clips will be horrible as the frequency becomes significant.

Power supply giveaway. Thank you for the unboxing and review. Very helpful.

Eddie you mislabeled the video, Cables are not the PROBLEM connectors ARE!!! Poor Quality connectors can lead to bad Audio just like connectors on meters or scopes.

Typical coaxial interconnect cables exhibit characteristic impedance and Vp which are related to conductor diameters and spacings and dielectric behaviours. Conductors and dielectrics (IE cables) exhibit low level noise behaviours which drive interconnected equipment intrinsic excess noise behaviours. System overall noise behaviour (timbre/signature/voicing) is the complex product of these noise sources complex interactions. IOW expect audio systems to sound (at least subtly) different according to cabling. Standard sinewave testing cannot and will not discriminate system dynamic excess noise behaviours. Eddie this video is just plain barking up the wrong tree and does nothing to disprove what educated ears know well, sorry about that. And BTW, please comprehend that noise is actual information and is anything but white, once this concept is taken on board then fuller understanding of multiple octave range audio system behaviours is starkly revealed. Lecture over, I hope you learned something today.

To check a cable you need a signal injected and then measure the other end with a spectrum analyzer for signal loss. Not all 50 ohm cables are equal at a given frequency, I use a spectrum analyzer to test cables.

I hope OSHA doesn't see your lab. I think you have exceeded to limit of how high you can stack gear. A safety cage is definitely in order if there is and avalanche. LOL.

Who knew speaker cables were RESISTIVE! Sweep them. No significant reactance in the audio range. P.T. Barnum was right, there's a sucker born every minute. If you want low loss, buy some low gauge copper jumper cables with lots of strands.

Another interesting video with measurements! For years I have been using "interconnects" made of regular Neutrix RCA connectors and 1 metre of ordinary 75 Ohm coaxial cable. I have used the same cable, but terminated with 75 Ohm BNCs for SPDIF. I am not crazy enough to pay more than a few quid for bloody cables. Thanks Eddie!

Cables nearly make no difference. The effects Audiofoolers use as snake oil can be something way beyond audio frequencies and probably over 1 mhz.

Music isn't a sine wave but an adventure in dynamics, creating a sound stage and eliminating strange uncorrelated sounds. The first speaker cable that really made a difference in my system was back around 1996 with AudioQuest Midnight, at $6/ft. Prior to that I used lamp zip cord and played with doubling that and heavier types. Doubling improved highs a little. Interconnect capacitance matters. Shielding increases it. Capacitance damps dynamics - subtle variances in music. I don't play heavy metal but rather music recorded to highlight instrument character including vocals. I have made shielded and unshielded interconnects getting capacitance down from over 200pf of purchased cables to 20 to 25pf for 18 inch cables. I tried silver tape on polypropylene - as suggested by Allen Wright - killed highs in my system, sounded dark. But the best thing I did was DIY room corrections, using a calibrated mic and REW to confirm changes 4-inch panels made to control the high end. The dimensions of my room fall into a good area and doesn't exhibit boominess so high end corrections stopped excessive reverberation improving clarity and focus. Is that audio foolery? No, subjective listening with a goal to improve the depth and focus. One tone arm I have has a micro adjustment for azimuth. It requires patience, some equipment and time to get it right. The adjustment is about the thickness of a o.5mm pencil lead thickness. The smart is a Kuzma 9point which also has VTF adjustment while listening - a half turn can make a difference in focus, noise, and highs. More will change tracking force significantly. Digital - I built a dual Twisted Pear Audio DAC which used ESS9018 per board and settled on a Denafrips Venus II R2R DAC. BOTH sound great, but the Venus edges my DIY unit out. Played using XXHIGHEND OS in RAM on a 22 core Windows minimized operating system. Do cores matter? Yes. But, JRIVER on an 8-core cheap computer almost sounds as good and you can play with REW room correction files that you optimize, if that is your thing. My digital and analog improved over the years. I built various amps, preamps and DACS. Tubes vs transistors. It all matters. Speakers: I improved my 1974 Klipschorns by adding dampening to the mid range horn , separating the crossover into high and low ends for bi-wiring and moving the upper horns to mount from the front of the mounting board. I built a PBN Sammy using my calculations from Leo Beranek, using other calculatiors as a check for a critically damped ported speaker - block ports if desired. Madi sound designed the crossover and I used all decent polypropylene caps, no super dooper types as they simply charge too much for them to even think about trying. Smoke and mirrors or tested by ear for the best realistic sound,? If you are honest about things you can tell if a component makes a difference. If it doesn't, move on If money is no object or you just want to buy a great system, seek out the better stores that audition and carry great stuff. Buy used. Read Arthur Salvatore's paper on equipment, but hold on when you see the prices! Can you hear a difference in Micheal Fremer's audio tracks highlighting an "affordable" Air Force turntable at about $49K vs his previous favorite or was it one he could afford at $149K? No arm or cartridge. My better turntable is a Transrotor Fat Bob Reference at $10K (no arm or cartridge) and that is all I will pay. Does it matter? Depends on you. I like to know what matters. The technology is interesting to me. So I tinker. Latest: the Richard Lee moving head MC amp (like a Leech MC amp). With a Twisted Pear Audio Retro phono stage, costs $100 to $150 and is super quiet - like full volume, little noise and no hum. Or an XONO using boards from RSTAudio in Germany. This guy built his own air bearing turntable with a friend. Fantastic! A little crazy perhaps. He uses a 14-inch tonearm, because it matters. I auditioned cables that closed dynamics and shrunk the sound stage - my zip cord was better. I even auditioned a flat cable with square conductors that had a strange phase sound - terrible! I don't need to measure - if I cannot hear it then it doesn't matter to me. Be real. Be honest about it. Listen. Great systems sound great at any volume - up to saturating the room. My KHorns can vibrate by pant legs and I can feel it in my lungs - but what is the point of that when it damages your hearing. On that note, wear hearing protection in cars. The ear next to a window will suffer if you drive as much as I did! Immediacy - stage - focus - no stray weird uncorrelated sounds If you want to pay stupid prices, such as $20K for liquid space age.silver conductors in an 1.5meter cable, go for it. Meanwhile, I make mine with bare silver Cards wire in a Teflon tube or flexible tubing. Best purchased interconnect I could actually hear a difference: Nordost Heimdall and AudioQuest King Cobra -- relegated to my surround system which as far as I'm concerned, is for producing noise for movies

I believe that in order for the tests to be useful to the audiophile you'll need a couple of additional inputs for plotting: Mood Placebo effect